Diumenge, 23 de juny del 2024

El sector del vi català necessita ordenar-se per creixer en valor, segons els autors de la Guia

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La Guia de Vins de Catalunya 2022 ja és al mercat. Ahir va ser presentada a l’espai Fòrum de Barcelona en una festa per la qual van passar prop de 1.000 professionals del món del vi, la restauració i la prescripció, i que es va celebrar en un espai obert per tal de garantir les mesures de seguretat sanitàries dels assistents.

 

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Per primer cop en les 14 edicions de La Guia, tres vins escumosos van ser escollits com els millors vinsEnoteca Gramona Brut Nature 2006, de Gramona; Turó d’en Mota 2007, de Recaredo; i Sabaté i Coca Reserva Familiar 2012, de Sabaté i Coca, en una edició que ha comptat  amb 1.248 referències presentades.

 

Però, sense dubte, la gran novetat d’aquesta edició ve de la mà de l’assaig que els directors de La Guia de Vins, Sílvia Naranjo i Jordi Alcover, han publicat juntament amb l’edició 2022 del llibre. Un assaig on plasmen la seva particular visió del món del vi català i cap a on hauria d’anar el sector per tal de continuar millorant en un futur pròxim.

 

La idea central sobre la qual gira tot l’escrit és la de potenciar les varietats tradicionals en detriment de les varietats foranes, amb el suport de l’INCAVI i de les denominacions d’origen catalanes. I tot en un termini d’entre set i deu anys, i amb els consegüents canvis i ajustos, de manera que, en una dècada, es pugui arribar al límit de la transformació i adequació de la vinya a Catalunya.

 

Preguntats per la motivació que els ha portat a fer aquest assaig, els autors afirmen que “probablement ha estat la comparació entre les DO de més qualitat del món i les DO catalanes”, i assenyalen que, per sobre de tot, hi ha una diferència fonamental entre aquestes, “l’eclecticisme que tenen les DO catalanes comparades amb les grans DO del món, que acoten moltíssim més les varietats de raïm acceptades”.

 

Segons afirma Jordi Alcover, aquesta situació d’”intersecció excessiva de varietats foranes” entre les diferents DO fa que el producte “es desdibuixi moltíssim, de manera que podem trobar el mateix producte de varietat forana a totes les DO catalanes”, amb la consegüent sensació de “manca d’ordre”.

 

Pels autors de La Guia, el problema radica en el fet que el vi català ha crescut moltíssim en els darrers 40 anys, però de manera molt desordenada. Ara, “el període de creixement s’ha acabat i necessiten ordre per aconseguir créixer en valor”.

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